|
The Rolex Submariner 1680 (Part 1)
The 200/600 Dial
One of the most synonymous names with the Rolex brand
is its Submariner. From Sean Connery as the famous James Bond to Nicholas
cage in ‘National Treasure’, the Submariner has become an icon of sorts in
and out of the watch collecting community. The first Submariner to feature
a date feature was introduced in or around 1967 and it was recognizable by
its tall acrylic crystal that had a big magnifying eye, the infamous
“cyclops” over the date window so that one could easily read the date. The
early batches up thru approximately 1973 were adorned with the red word
“submariner”; it is this version of the reference 1680 that is desired by
many Rolex fans. While not the most rare of Rolex sport watches, it is hard
to find a nice one with a clean dial and matching original hands because a
lot of the dials were swapped out by Rolex during routine maintenance over
the years.
The red wording is not the only caveat to these
magnificent time pieces. Because Rolex used several different dial makers,
dial variations are abound and with them, a plethora of fakes. In fact, due
to the popularity of the red sub, it is one of the most faked Rolexes in the
world today and should you be in search of one, do your research and don’t
be afraid to ask questions.
The first release of the red dial in 1967 (the earliest
serial known to the author is 2,02X,XXX) and featured the “200 meters/600
ft” dial. This version is harder to find than the later 600/200 dial and
there are at least three variations of this early dial:
1. The first dials had 200/600 with the red submariner
word clearly shorter in width than the depth rating. Several have been
shown on various forums and have been ‘verified’ through a Rolex servicing
(this is about the best one can hope to have sans the original warranty
paper). Note that the top of the “f” in ft goes up and straight
over. These three are very nice examples.
Photo: JStuart
Photo: SteveSinNJ
Photo: Delgado
Upon further close up..
Photo: Delgado
2. The second 200/600 dials where the red submariner word
is clearly wider or as wide as the depth rating. This example
has been authenticated by Rolex Service Centers. Take note
that the top portion of the “f” in ft is very curved and long, therefore the
"long f" dials.
Photo: DiverDick
Photo: DiverDick
Photo: N. Tiphaine
The Bracelets.
With the exception of the ‘brown’ variation, these were
originally issued with a riveted bracelet reference 7206 with 60 or 80 end
pieces (Some show clearly the 80 stamping, but some of the stampings are so
illegible, that many look to be 60). This was the start of the new age of
Rolex Submariners.
Movements.
Most
of the early reds, with the "flat top F's", have been seen to have
originally been equipped with a NON-hack movement, but as always with Rolex,
there are some during the transitional period between the dial change that
surely had a hack movement installed in them.
Go to Part 2 |
